Sunday

Stracotto — Tuscan beef ragù

A Tuscan pot roast so slowly braised it makes bolognese look ordinary: beef chuck in Chianti, tomato and fennel, until the meat collapses into silk.

3 hr 30 minServes 6 to 8Cass's rating
Stracotto — Tuscan beef ragù

Jamie Oliver's recipe from his Italian cookbook, dedicated to Gennaro Contaldo and the late Antonio Carluccio. I have made it a few times now and it genuinely makes a great bolognese taste average. The fennel is non-negotiable.

Stracotto served over tagliatelle in a rustic bowl with parmesan, basil and a glass of Chianti

The finished plate — tagliatelle, parmesan, basil, and a glass of Chianti.

Method

  1. 01

    Take the beef out of the fridge an hour before cooking. Pat it dry and season aggressively with salt and pepper all over.

  2. 02

    Heat the olive oil in a heavy casserole or Dutch oven over high heat. Sear the beef hard on every side until deeply brown — this is where the sauce gets its colour. Remove and set aside.

  3. 03

    Lower the heat, add the butter, then the onion, celery, carrot and fennel. Cook gently for 15 to 20 minutes until the vegetables are soft and sweet, not coloured.

  4. 04

    Add the garlic and tomato paste and cook for 2 minutes, stirring, until the paste darkens and the garlic is fragrant.

  5. 05

    Pour in the Chianti and use a wooden spoon to scrape every sticky bit from the bottom of the pot. Let it bubble and reduce by half — about 5 minutes.

  6. 06

    Add the crushed tomatoes, beef stock, bay leaves, rosemary, thyme, fennel seeds and cinnamon stick. Stir and nestle the beef back into the pot.

  7. 07

    Bring to a gentle simmer, cover, and cook either on the lowest stovetop heat or in a 150°C oven for 3 to 3½ hours. Turn the meat once or twice if you remember.

  8. 08

    The stracotto is ready when a fork slides in with no resistance and the meat wants to fall apart. Remove the beef to a board and rest it loosely under foil.

  9. 09

    Fish out the herbs and cinnamon stick. Skim some fat if it looks too rich, then taste the sauce and balance with salt, pepper or a pinch of sugar if the tomatoes are sharp.

  10. 10

    Pull the beef into rough shreds with two forks. Some people slice it thickly; I prefer it ragged and sauce-soaked. Return the meat to the pot.

  11. 11

    Toss the cooked tagliatelle in a little of the sauce, then pile into warm bowls. Top with more meat and sauce, a shower of parmesan, a drizzle of your best olive oil and a few basil leaves.

Serve it with

Pairings

Cheeses
Aged Pecorino Toscano or Parmigiano-Reggiano shaved at the table.
Cold meats
Finocchiona salami or thin-sliced prosciutto di Parma.
Seafood
Not traditional here — keep the table red and meaty.
Salads & vegetables
Bitter leaves with lemon and olive oil, or roasted fennel with orange segments.

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