Sunday
Kedgeree — Nani's Sunday morning
The Indo-English breakfast that found its way to South Africa via my grandmother's kitchen. Jamie Oliver's recipe, with a little of her foot on its neck.
South Africa has one of the largest Indian diasporas in the world (Canada may have overtaken us by now — who knows), and kedgeree is one of those colonial-era dishes that travelled, softened, and came home better. Of all the recipes Indian cooks gently handed to English lords and ladies, my grandmother put her foot right on the neck of this one. When I miss her, I make this — this, and green bean stew. Jamie Oliver's version is my favourite starting point; everything else is hers.
Method
- 01
Lay the haddock in a wide pan with the bay leaf, pour over the milk and top up with a little water to cover. Bring to a bare simmer, then turn off the heat and let it sit for 8–10 minutes — the residual heat will cook it through gently. Lift out, flake into big pieces, discard skin and any bones.
- 02
Meanwhile, cook the rinsed basmati in plenty of salted boiling water for 8 minutes until just tender, then drain well and spread on a tray to stop it cooking.
- 03
Lower the eggs into simmering water and cook for 6½ minutes for soft-jammy yolks. Lift into iced water, peel, and halve.
- 04
In a large heavy pan, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the onion with a pinch of salt and cook gently for 10 minutes until soft and golden — patience here is the whole dish.
- 05
Stir in the ginger, garlic and green chilli and cook for 1 minute. Add the curry powder, turmeric, garam masala and cumin and toast for another minute until everything smells warm and nutty.
- 06
Tip in the drained rice and fold it through the spiced butter until every grain is pale gold. Add a splash of the haddock-poaching milk to loosen — you want it glossy, not wet.
- 07
Gently fold through the flaked haddock, lemon zest, most of the parsley and coriander. Taste — it will want salt, pepper, and a good squeeze of lemon.
- 08
Tip onto a warm platter, settle the halved eggs on top, scatter with the remaining herbs and crispy onions if using, and serve with lemon wedges. Eat slowly. Think of your people.
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