For company
Calamari with herby yoghurt emulsion
The latest Taste magazine has an ode to braaing, and this is their star turn — but I don't do coals. I have a gas braai, which in South Africa is sacrilegious, so mine happens in a hot pan on the stove. It always comes out perfectly, and the herby number is special.
Calamari is cooked hot and fast — 1 to 2 minutes a side and no more, or it goes rubbery. And chill the emulsion just long enough to thicken up a little; never serve it ice cold.
Method
- 01
Bring a small pot of water to the boil. Blanch the dill (and I blanch the parsley and coriander too) for 10–15 seconds, then straight into ice water to stop the cooking. Squeeze out excess water — this keeps the emulsion vivid green and stops it turning dull.
- 02
Tip the blanched herbs into a blender with the remaining emulsion ingredients: the olive oil, sea salt, lemon zest and juice, and the double-cream yoghurt. Blitz until silky and gloriously green. Taste — it should be bright, herby and just salty enough.
- 03
Pour the emulsion into a bowl and put it in the fridge to set up a bit — not ice cold, just to thicken up a little while you do the calamari.
- 04
Pat the calamari tubes and tentacles thoroughly dry with paper towel — wet calamari steams instead of sears. Season lightly.
- 05
Get a wide pan seriously hot with a slick of olive oil. Cook the calamari tubes and tentacles for 1 to 2 minutes on each side, hot and fast, until golden and just opaque. Do NOT overcook the calamari — it will go rubbery.
- 06
Season the hot calamari with a pinch of sea salt, spread the herby emulsion across a platter, pile the calamari on top, and bring warm crusty bread to the table to mop up every last bit of that herby number.
In the glass
Paul Cluver Village Chardonnay
Cass’s first choice for the calamari: a fresh Elgin Chardonnay with pineapple, green apple, citrus blossom and a crisp mineral finish. It flatters the sweet seafood and cuts through the double-cream yoghurt. Paul Cluver Sauvignon Blanc or a bone-dry Riesling would also be lovely alternatives.
Keep cooking
