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Arancini in neapolitana — the complete project
Saffron risotto bianco set overnight, rolled around a fresh mozzarella heart, panko-crumbed, fried golden and served in a deep, slow-cooked neapolitana with parmesan and basil.
The complexity of arancini is the whole point — it is a project, and it rewards every step. Start the day before with Jamie Oliver's risotto bianco and cool it overnight so it rolls cleanly. Panko is non-negotiable; nothing else gives you that shattering, lacy crust. A cube of fresh mozzarella at the centre is the molten reward. For the sauce, I cook a proper neapolitana enriched with beef stock, basil and a glug of red wine — deeper and rounder than a standard tomato. I came across the combination on Epicurious and it has never let me down. If you want to hero an Italian evening, this is my go-to.
Method
- 01
Day before — make the risotto bianco. Warm the stock in a pan and keep it on a low simmer. In a wide, heavy pan, sweat the onion, celery and garlic in a glug of olive oil with a pinch of salt for 8 minutes until soft and sweet.
- 02
Tip in the rice and stir for 2 minutes until the grains are glossy and just translucent at the edges. Pour in the wine and stir until it has been absorbed.
- 03
Add the saffron water, then add hot stock a ladle at a time, stirring almost constantly, only adding the next ladle when the previous one has been absorbed. After 16–18 minutes the rice should be just past al dente — slightly looser than you'd serve at the table, because it will firm up overnight.
- 04
Off the heat, beat in the cold butter and parmesan vigorously until glossy. Season hard. Spread thinly onto a large tray lined with baking paper, cover and refrigerate overnight — this is the secret to arancini that hold their shape.
- 05
Next day — make the neapolitana. Warm the olive oil in a heavy pan over low heat, add the onion with a pinch of salt and cook gently for 10 minutes until soft and sweet. Add the garlic and cook for another 2 minutes without colouring.
- 06
Pour in the red wine, turn the heat up and let it bubble down by half. Add the crushed tomatoes, beef stock, sugar and basil. Season, partly cover, and simmer very gently for 45 minutes, stirring now and then, until rich, deep and glossy. Taste and adjust.
- 07
Roll the arancini. Take a heaped tablespoon of cold risotto in a damp hand, flatten into a disc, press a cube of mozzarella into the centre, then mould the rice around it into a smooth ball about the size of a small plum. Make sure no mozzarella peeks through. Repeat with the rest.
- 08
Set up three bowls: seasoned flour, beaten egg, panko. Roll each ball through the flour, then the egg, then press firmly into the panko to give a thick, even coat. Chill the crumbed balls for 20 minutes while the oil heats.
- 09
Heat the oil in a deep, heavy pan to 170°C. Fry the arancini in batches of 4–5 for 3–4 minutes, turning, until deeply golden and crisp all over and hot through the centre. Drain on a rack over kitchen paper. Season immediately with sea salt.
- 10
To serve — ladle the warm neapolitana into shallow bowls, nestle the hot arancini into the sauce, shave over generous parmesan, tear over fresh basil, finish with a drizzle of olive oil. Bring straight to the table and let everyone cut one open to see the molten centre.
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